There's plenty of theft that happens in broad daylight in DTK and everywhere in the region and it's silly to say it's not a problem. Every day in the summer when I volunteer at recycle cycles there's people coming in with partial bikes, missing seatposts and saddles, missing handlebars (cut the cables and 4 allen keys gets you a nice prize that fits in a knapsack). Thankfully most of the theft is unorganized and they aren't using power tools yet so quality u-locks and bolt-cutter resistant chains are the best defence around here. U-locks are particularly vulnerable to leverage attacks, most anyone can break one open with a piece of scaffold pipe or some other long lever.
(12-04-2018, 10:43 PM)jamincan Wrote: [ -> ]Seriously, a single-speed beater. Great for winter riding, and not particularly attractive to thieves.
Yep, that's what I do. Also for instance my seatpost on my summer bike is rusted in, so it's hard to steal.
I haven't had my bike stolen at UW. My bikes aren't exactly high end. We did have some bike theft at our old place without garages. Now they're in my garage and harder to steal.
(12-04-2018, 09:20 PM)danbrotherston Wrote: [ -> ]The seat post supports your weight, it shouldn't be a problem supporting the weight of the bike.
Not so much of an issue of not being able to, more of an issue of having a 30-40 mm tube being clamped supporting a moment arm 1 or 2 m away. Doing any work at the ends of your bike make the whole thing bounce and jerk. It’s a huge moment on a small mounting point. It’s just a very bad design.
It’s like people who don’t use their parking brake. I absolutely
cringe every time I see someone pull into a slightly sloped parking spot, stop, and I see the vehicle roll back and
bounce from every shaft and gear being torqued up the whazzhoo in the transmission. Bad bad bad. But some will argue that “oh it’s designed for that”. Doesn’t matter - I don’t like when machines or structures “feel bad”.
(12-05-2018, 08:04 AM)Canard Wrote: [ -> ] (12-04-2018, 09:20 PM)danbrotherston Wrote: [ -> ]The seat post supports your weight, it shouldn't be a problem supporting the weight of the bike.
Not so much of an issue of not being able to, more of an issue of having a 30-40 mm tube being clamped supporting a moment arm 1 or 2 m away. Doing any work at the ends of your bike make the whole thing bounce and jerk. It’s a huge moment on a small mounting point. It’s just a very bad design.
It’s like people who don’t use their parking brake. I absolutely cringe every time I see someone pull into a slightly sloped parking spot, stop, and I see the vehicle roll back and bounce from every shaft and gear being torqued up the whazzhoo in the transmission. Bad bad bad. But some will argue that “oh it’s designed for that”. Doesn’t matter - I don’t like when machines or structures “feel bad”.
You might want to check out what are generally known as team repair stands. They tend to be a bit more expensive, and not really quite as useful as a regularly stand that clamps to the seat post, but they address your concern by mounting the bike from the forks and bottom bracket.
Most bike maintenance doesn't require high torques and the bike is sufficiently stiff that it doesn't really bounce and jerk at all. The ease of adjusting the position of the bike to what you are working on or cleaning makes the traditional repair stand well worthwhile in my opinion and is a benefit that you simply don't get with the team-style stands. Removing pedals is easier off the stand in my opinion, and maybe working on the bottom bracket? I don't know, as that's not work I've tackled myself yet.
I wound up getting an ABUS U-lock with cable. Left it outside GRR for 2h in the dark last night to no issue. I'm glad I always take my lights in though; I realized last night that my gifted front light costs $125 0_0 but wow is it nice and bright.
(12-04-2018, 10:44 PM)clasher Wrote: [ -> ]There's plenty of theft that happens in broad daylight in DTK and everywhere in the region and it's silly to say it's not a problem. Every day in the summer when I volunteer at recycle cycles there's people coming in with partial bikes, missing seatposts and saddles, missing handlebars (cut the cables and 4 allen keys gets you a nice prize that fits in a knapsack). Thankfully most of the theft is unorganized and they aren't using power tools yet so quality u-locks and bolt-cutter resistant chains are the best defence around here. U-locks are particularly vulnerable to leverage attacks, most anyone can break one open with a piece of scaffold pipe or some other long lever.
I'm sure it happens, I never said that it didn't, but it's far far more common at night. I leave my bike locked downtown and uptown during the day for hours at a time frequently, and I've never had a theft from that (on the other hand, I've repeatedly had bikes stolen from my home).
As for U-Locks, only cheaper single shackle ulocks are vulnerable to leverage attacks, more expensive locks with two shackles, especially those smaller size locks are very hard to leverage open.
(12-05-2018, 08:04 AM)Canard Wrote: [ -> ]Not so much of an issue of not being able to, more of an issue of having a 30-40 mm tube being clamped supporting a moment arm 1 or 2 m away. Doing any work at the ends of your bike make the whole thing bounce and jerk. It’s a huge moment on a small mounting point. It’s just a very bad design.
Seatposts are incredibly strong... on bikes with seized posts I've clamped the post into a vice and reefed on them with much more force than any standard repair done in a stand, some will break and snap, others twist and fold but it's so far beyond the amount of force one would be able to put into a small allen screw with hand tools it's never been a concern for most bike shops in the world. I even clamp my carbon bike in a repair stand... it's never gonna be an issue if you just snug it up. And if you're still worried about clamping the seatpost you can just clamp the frame tubes somewhere else... any good bike stand will have jaws that open enough to clamp round-ish tubes that are bigger and they come with softer jaws that shouldn't mar the finish. I sometimes use a rag as an extra measure.
I've been volunteering at recycle cycles for almost a decade and I've never seen or heard of someone damaging their post or frame by clamping it by the seatpost.
Like jamincan says, pedals are easier on the ground since you can stand on a stuck pedal to hold the crank, and some goes for a stuck bottom bracket. Taking apart a threadless headset is way better on the ground too... the nicest stands can hold the bike upright and still keep the weight on the ground.
(I use the parking brake on my car)
You again missed my point. Sure, the seatpost is strong. And it’s around 35 mm in diameter. The front of your bike is over a metre away from that point. It is simply not possible for that point to be rigid in space. Things will move. Things will bounce. The stand will flex. That’s annoying when you’re working on it. Every video I’ve ever seen of someone using a stand shows them glancing at it the wrong way and the bike is bouncing around like it’s in a hurricane. Hate.
Has anyone used, or have feedback, on the bottom bracket style where it's a threaded bottom bracket, but has bearings which thread into the ends after that, external to the frame, to move the bearing load points farther outboard of the typical narrower internal separation?
(12-05-2018, 12:18 PM)Canard Wrote: [ -> ]You again missed my point. Sure, the seatpost is strong. And it’s around 35 mm in diameter. The front of your bike is over a metre away from that point. It is simply not possible for that point to be rigid in space. Things will move. Things will bounce. The stand will flex. That’s annoying when you’re working on it. Every video I’ve ever seen of someone using a stand shows them glancing at it the wrong way and the bike is bouncing around like it’s in a hurricane. Hate.
It's not annoying if you actually spend some time working on bikes and it's not a bad design just because you don't like the idea of it. The entire industry uses it because it's versatile and it allows mostly unencumbered access to the entire bicycle and it works on many different sized bikes and frames. The amount of actual bouncing that happens is minimal and I don't know what people are doing to make the bike bounce around like it's in a hurricane. Once you get the hang of working on a bike you don't end up moving it around all that much (unless you want to) when you're working on it. You don't have to take my word for it, I've only have been working on bikes in stands for over 9 years, albeit only a few hundred hours a year so I'm not a professional by any means ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
(12-05-2018, 12:58 PM)Viewfromthe42 Wrote: [ -> ]Has anyone used, or have feedback, on the bottom bracket style where it's a threaded bottom bracket, but has bearings which thread into the ends after that, external to the frame, to move the bearing load points farther outboard of the typical narrower internal separation?
Yeah, external bearings are pretty common these days. Most Shimano cranks (mid-level and up) use these style and so do many sram/truvativ. They are similar in appearance to each other but not interchangeable. I've put over 10000km on one set of bearings and they still felt smooth last time I had the crank out. In my experience they are a solid design.
Hopefully they don't continue the roll-curb trend along those roads.
Yeah. I would prefer plunking down concrete barriers over building lanes with roll-curbs. I also would like to see two-way bike lanes on both Erb *and* Bridgeport.
(12-06-2018, 03:06 PM)timc Wrote: [ -> ]Yeah. I would prefer plunking down concrete barriers over building lanes with roll-curbs. I also would like to see two-way bike lanes on both Erb *and* Bridgeport.
It’s weird to pick one of Erb and Bridgeport. Just build two-way cycle tracks on both. Well separated from the motor vehicles too — no roll curbs!